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Jack Martin

Colourist based in the West Coast who specialises in platinum tones. Among his clientele are celebrated actors and well-known figures.

What affordable item can't you live without?

My top pick is a gentle drying cloth, or even a smooth cotton shirt to towel-dry your locks. Most people don’t realise how much harm a regular bath towel can do, notably with lightened or dyed strands. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use while conditioning. It shields your locks while removing knots and helps maintain the integrity of the individual hairs, notably following coloring.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – ceramic or tourmaline, with precise heat settings. Grey and blonde hair can yellow or burn easily without the proper tool.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

At-home lightening. Internet videos often simplify it, but the truth is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals severely damage their locks, break it off or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I would also avoid keratin or permanent straightening treatments on pre-lightened strands. Such treatments are often overly harsh for already fragile strands and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

What frequent error do you observe?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their hair type or colour. A number of people misuse violet-based cleansers until their lightened locks looks drab and lacking shine. A few overdo on high-protein masks and end up with stiff, brittle hair. A further common mistake is heat styling without protection. When applying hot tools or dryers without a protective product, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to enhance nutrient delivery and promote root strength. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps eliminate impurities and allows solutions to be more efficient. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown positive outcomes. They work internally to benefit externally by balancing body chemistry, anxiety and dietary insufficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, PRP therapy – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be effective. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Trichology Expert

Trichologist and brand president of Philip Kingsley centers and lines targeting thinning.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will snip damaged ends myself bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

What affordable find is essential?

Toppik hair fibres are truly impressive if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it virtually undetectable. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had significant shedding – and also currently as I’m going through some considerable hair loss after having a severe illness recently. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

What justifies a higher investment?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the best results. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It shows no real benefit. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can affect thyroid test results.

What blunder stands out often?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the main goal of cleansing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the contrary is accurate – particularly with flaky scalp, which is aggravated by oil buildup. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a balancing act. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it shouldn't harm your hair.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will resolve on its own. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus